Essentials for Successful Garden Wildlife - Macro Photography with Michelle Whitmore
“A wildlife photographer, I bet you go to some fascinating places and see lots of interesting animals.”
I still find it amusing to watch people’s reaction’s when I tell them I find the vast majority of subjects’ I shoot are in my own private nature reserve, formally known as my garden. Not only am I a photographer, but I am also an avid gardener, with a passion for flowers, plants and the array of wildlife that choose to visit and make their homes in my little sanctuary makes it all worthwhile.There is a very fine line between real macro photography and close-up photography; what defines macro photography is the 1:1 reproduction ratio which means that the subject is the same size as the image on the sensor. You can watch a whole new world open up on your cameras viewfinder. The results of macro photography can leave you giving an involuntary sharp in-take of breath as you see the patterns of a damselflies eye really close-up for the first time, or the spikey hairs of a vapourer moth caterpillar … I still do it even now.
It’s worth spending a little time getting to know your species, whether through books, the internet or simply by observing them as they go about their daily business. The more you know about your subject the more you will be able to anticipate their movements, and if you have been observing them the chances are that they have routine or a route they follow every day, or they may have a favourite type of flower which enables you to select your spot and set up your equipment well in advance. Bees are known for using the same flight-path and communicating back to the rest of the colony the source of good pollen, so you’ll never be short of volunteer subjects.
“The more you know about your subject the more you will be able to anticipate their movements”
The time of year plays a big part in what insects are about and when. Many species hibernate or have died off during the winter but it’s worth planting winter flowering Mahonia or a pot of winter flowering Heathers for the odd insect that doesn’t hibernate fully, or rises early from its slumber on a sunny winters day.
Weather conditions must also be taken into consideration; you won’t see many winged species like butterflies or bees when it’s windy or raining. Like-wise, others like the woodlouse avoid the hottest part of the day and stay under the stones and in crevices in order to conserve their energy and reduce the risk of dehydration, which could lead to death from drying out. Where possible try to shoot at different times of the day for a greater variety of shots and insects. Many species rely on the sun to warm up, catching them on an early morning before they have gotten going can reveal a fine mist of dew drops to give a twist to your images but you’ll have to be quick as some species are pretty elusive once active.
A number of species of larger butterflies don’t generally appear until the air is warm and then flit all day but tend to come to rest at the end of the day and catch the last of the sun’s rays; this is also a good time for dragonflies and shield-bugs.
Don’t forget the early evening; it’s a good time to catch night-time insects like moths and lace wings as they start to stir. These insects can be encouraged by planting flowers that have a strong evening fragrance such as Night-scented Stocks, Honeysuckle and Jasmine; most “moth plants” tend to be white or pale in colour so the moths can see them at dusk. Slow worms are also most active at twilight so watch out for them too.
Without sounding like a gardening magazine article, what can you do to encourage insects and wildlife into your patch?
1. Flowers provide two vital things: pollen and nectar. Pollen contains protein and allows bees and hoverflies and many other creatures to mate and breed. Nectar is the sugar-rich energy drink many creatures depend on. A good wildlife garden needs a good supply of both throughout the year, from January until late autumn. Bluebells, buddleia, lavender, foxgloves and heathers are particular favourites of bees and butterflies.
2. Grow plants which fruit or have berries. Not only will you benefit from the fruit but a great many insect love to feast on windfall, all you have to do is be ready and wait for them to arrive. Fallen pear, plums and damsons are great at enticing wasps, flies and butterflies.
3. Grow some Ivy if you have a patch at the bottom of the garden. Not only will it provide a habitat for insects and nesting accommodation for birds it also offers a supply of nectar in the autumn followed by berries in the winter months, ideal for photographing birds looking for food on a cold, frosty day.
4. Create some habitats. Bird-boxes and insects’ houses are good if you have the space and provide some great opportunities for photography, but if you haven’t got the space there are plenty of other things you can do. Long grass provides shelter for a number of ladybirds and log piles and fallen leaves provide a welcome sanctuary and food for wood-lice, ear-wigs, spring-tails and other detritivores, which in turn encourages the garden-friendly hedgehog to stay. A pile of stones or bricks under a hedge or against a wall will also provide a good refuge for a variety of species including ladybirds and ground beetles. Each of these habitats can be recreated within the studio environment if you don’t want to get down and dirty with the bugs. 5. Build a pond. It doesn’t have to be big, not only will it provide a habitat for a large number of water species it will also become a regular waterhole for many others. Sitting beside a pond watching a damselfly emerge is a very satisfying experience and well worth the wait. Once it has fully emerged the damselfly will sit for around for about an hour as its wings dry out and body hardens, providing lots of time for photographs as it changes from a clear, see through body of the emerging damselfly nymph to its final vibrant colour.
6. Be a little tolerant of the not so nice bugs. None of us are too keen on slugs, snails, aphids, ants and wasps in our gardens but they are there for a reason and form an essential part of the garden ecosystem. Why not make the most of them to expand your photography skills and practice different techniques? Ants in particular are fascinating social insects that can be encouraged to do pretty much anything with a trail of sugar. The wasp is pretty cool close up, and the slowness of snails makes them easy to move about and manipulate without harming them. Besides, if you eliminate the “ugly” part of the food chain, the prettier predators won’t return!“Create some habitats. Bird-boxes and insects’ houses are good if you have the space and provide some great opportunities for photography”
It’s worth remembering that every garden is important, even the tiniest of patches, because they join up and form a patchwork of green spaces and it’s these areas that all wildlife home in on.
I am often asked what you need to be a good wildlife photographer and my answer is always the same “PATIENCE – and lots of it”. Never chase around after an insect as you’ll scare it permanently or maybe inadvertently hurt it. It is far better to select your position in the garden and be prepared to just sit and wait, take a bottle of water and a snack if you have to, and also a camping stool or a comfy cushion because sometimes you can be there a while … just waiting and watching.
Check out more of Michelle’s work on her website:
Or watch her fantastic films live on The Photographer Academy now!
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